Hey everyone,
I'm trying to make a cut this window for a revolved solid and am having some difficulty.
Here is the part I'm trying to replicate.
My 1st Attempt:
My Second Attempt: the fillet looks better
Any help you could give would be appreciated, thanks!
Nice Maha!...
(I'll add what I was going to post,.. revolve solid and surf)
Thank you.
Why do all beginners work with surfaces ... so common. Forget surfaces and 1000s of planes etc.
Surface tool is a 2 in 1 that mean you can go to solid from surface. Beginners forget to exploit the origin plane that is the reason for many planes.
in 10 years of working with solidworks I've found that surfaces shouldn't be touched unless you are making ergonomic models such as cars, planes...
for anything else it's pretty much never needed. Working with surfaces is just extra work with. As Paul shown he used only 3 features while the OP used 8 features.
More the experience with SWX less the features and simple methods will come along.
Damir,.. for me,.. it is whatever works or gives me choices or reduces my time,... both solid/surface examples use the same sketches.. but, the surface example, using the Thicken, creates a more realistic deep drawn spring pin.
You mean this?
yes, the flow of the surface in a final deep drawn part would be normal to (thicken),.. not cut.
You are right. This example does indeed require surfaces. I couldn't do it any other way.
Actually Paul, I think this is not drawn but just wiped to form. Pressed into the shape seen in the pictures. Thus the flare on the ends as expected and the smooth transition around the bends. This would produce the normal to thicken cut as you and Maha show. If it was drawn (multiple draws (seriously doubt that)) then it is conceivable that the cut would be lasered (or punched) in after forming. If lasered could be normal or not. IMHO, this is a flat blank with the cuts in it then formed up.
Anyhow,,, You know me... Had to see if this could be done in sheet metal. Ended up with a slick looking part but it took some doing. Sort of Quasi sheet metal but does have the normal cut for the open areas. Won't flatten as it is. Have to suppress one half to do that.
I did use some surfacing to smooth out the transitions.
Edit:.. Made the material thicker.
Hey Dennis,.. you know more than I regarding the words/terms/process.
For me, the word used were drawn or stamped,. so, maybe not deep drawn?..(and yes, have designed deep drawn vessels/caps as well.. and yes,.. not the same).., it was a custom spring plunger we had made,.. such as, a telescoping pole indexing design (very similar to the above part).
Here is a image and site which uses the words "deep drawn fasteners" Standard Spring - Sheet Metal (Stamping)
I have made shallow draw tooling before (using urethane and springs along with a pressure plate) and I have had friends who owned shops with 2,500 ton knuckle presses. Also large OBI and Straight Sides with cushions.. They did the deep stuff (sometimes 3 or four stage)This was in the 60s 70s (certainly have forgot something along the way). I have always been under the impression that if it thins or controls the flow of material as a result of trapping the material along the periphery (sometimes with a draw ring included), it is considered a draw. If it thickens the material or uncontrollably squashes (pretty sure that is the case here) due to compression it is a stamping or just a plain wipe. Haven't drawn anything in a long, long time with the exception on bulging mostly done with turret tooling and some minor 3/8" deep stuff with taper.
Thank you for the help everyone! I knew this had to be simpler than I was making it.
