7 Replies Latest reply on Aug 31, 2017 2:51 PM by Dave Dinius

    Complex Mold Slit

    Tom Mueller

      Hi Guys

      I am stuck on my mold split. Its not a easy split on one plane.  I
      think I have a good parting line, but my Parting Surface will not work. I
      manually moved the dotes to make it look good. But I think Im missing
      something.

      I also can not knit it.

      very frustrated

      Any input would be greatly appreciated

        • Re: Complex Mold Slit
          Newell Voss

          SW parting surface feature really sucks.

          Use a combo of ruled/planar surfaces to ensure a truly flat parting line. select a direction reference plane. then pick your parting line edges to send out. work your way around using bisecting planes. that should be an easy part for you to split.

          • Re: Complex Mold Slit
            Dave Dinius

            Like Newell Voss stated above SW parting surfaces really suck. Use planar, extruded, ruled, lofted, swept, boundary, filled, offset surfaces. Anything but parting surfaces!!

             

            And clean up that feature tree, what a mess.

              • Re: Complex Mold Slit
                Tom Mueller

                Thanks Newell Voss and Dave Dinius

                I guess I will start learning surface tools. I thought SW would make it easier.

                Would you be able to show my a small section? the hard part is where the rail goes up to the seat

                 

                lol. I thought my tree looked good!

                  • Re: Complex Mold Slit
                    Newell Voss

                    2017-08-31_10-08-25.jpg

                    pick a plane perpendicular to the direction of your parting line and in the desired surface extrusion direction (make one if needed)

                    select ruled surface, select sweep, set a distance far enough out to give you space for your split sketch. work your way around the model trimming and knitting surfacing while thinking about how the tool will be manufactured. also note, if you use the automated tools like shutoff surface, you still need to create a surface manually if you select a boundary and choose "no fill". remember to cleanup any unnecessary sharps, radii, and ugly draft transitions or parting line steps (there are plenty on this part) before getting started on any split. once split, make sure you have proper draft for your slide -by/shutoff areas (min 3 deg) and clear any irrelevant shutoffs and corner radii. It will take a while to get your mind wrapped around tool design and splitting parts but it will give you a huge advantage over other designers once you get it down. Learning manual surface creation goes along way too.

                • Re: Complex Mold Slit
                  Dave Dinius

                  I was going to split this myself but after looking back at everything that was done decided not to. As a mold designer, I would of been kicking this part back to you telling you to fix it. First and foremost was that you modeled half of the part then mirrored it. That is a good practice BUT, the part wasn't symmetric. Symmetry is a strong and valued friend when used properly.

                  As for my comment on "clean up the feature tree", there was a lot of sketches and planes that served no purpose. Get rid of them! There was also some sketched that wasn't fully defined. The first sketch for example was almost there with just a rad and a line that needed dimensions. It also had a line that has a .200 dim but had no purpose that I could see, get rid of it! Point is, build a good clean model and it will make your life easier down the road.

                  You was able to make a part that has a little higher degree of difficulty and I say good for you. Keep playing with it and the mold split will be a lot easier to make happen. I know I might sound like an ash - hole but good practices make for good designers. I hope to see you there sometime down the road....

                  Dave