Thanks for posting this question. The attached appearance should work nicely for you. And yes, it will look awesome and completely photoreal for animations, too!
Simply download, then drag/drop onto the desired surface.
It's an Anisotropic appearance type, so you can adjust the Base color and Highlight color to obtain the desired contrast. It has the industry standard radial normal map (high-end bump map) applied, so please also adjust the 'Bump Strength' to achieve your desired effect.
Send images back to this thread to let us know how it goes!
Hello Dave and Brian,
I am new to Visualize and this whole field of photo rendering in general. I've applied the appearance that Brian posted but between playing with bump strength, tile size and roughness, I cannot achieve those desired concentric lines.
Dave, could you take a screenshot of your settings so I can duplicate what you've done?
I was finally able to get the pattern to show up. I had to use "perspective" mapping. But for some reason the center of the circles is not centered on the part face. In the picture here, not on the silver looking face toward the front. The center is off on the side there.
Why is this? And how can I fix that?
I work with a lot of turned parts and have run into this situation frequently.
You'll want to make sure that you've "extracted" that (surface) part that will have the appearance, This may include the edge radius and cylinder walls. You'll then want to map the appearance in "Box" mode, and click "Fit to Part".
Note that the mapping of this appearance may be a little finicky, and may require mapping in planar mode in some X, Y, or Z orientation.
@ Corey & Jonas To answer your question..... "Is there a way to get this kind of appearance in Visualize and the highlights behave realistically in animation."
Yes, there are a couple ways....
I'm no expert, but I've used Visualise/Bunkspeed for several years and many other rendering programs since the early 1980’s. I do mostly static images of my own CAD models so I get off a little easier than most. I render a lot of machined parts and frequently need the radial machined look on my parts. These are three methods I use in order of my own needs and preference.
Of course, others may have other methods or tips to achieve this look. Please add to this thread if you have your own methods, I would love to see them. I have also posted a few quick renders using each of my own methods. And some sample files including my 2018 .svpj files.
Quite simply, build the radial lines into your GEOMETRY. All my renderings are my own CAD models. This makes it quite easy to add the radial lines directly into the actual geometry. For me, this is the easiest way to achieve the desired and realistic results. But depending on the complexity of the models this method can not always be used. Also, I know a lot of you render images that have been passed to you from your CAD guys or elsewhere. Unless you can convince them to add the radial lines into the actual geometry you probably won't be able to use this method. This method in my opinion is the absolute best method to use, when it can be used. Its a little tedious to create the actual geometry but if it can be done will produce the most realistic results. This method also adds a lot of "weight" to your model with many more polygons. To use this method you need a pretty powerful workstation with at least one high-end GPU (the more the better) with a lot of v-ram to store the scene. As an example, the pan rendered with Method #2 has about 150,000 polygons. The pan rendered with Method #1 has about 19,000,000 polygons. Laptops or Tablets will not cut the Mustard here.
Another render using Method #1:
To use a very technical term I will call this Method "Cheating". First I create a new "Plastic" appearance. Then, I found a very nice radial jpeg image that I put in the "Color" channel of the new "Plastic" appearance. This is a very simple way to get the radial look onto your parts. One downside to this method is the "radial look" does not realistically change with the lighting, environment or cameras changing positions as it is a fixed jpeg IMAGE. That's fine for me as I render mostly static images. But if you want to do a animated fly-around the look will not realistically change as its only an image over-laid on your part.
Use the "Stainless Steel Radial Brushed.svap" as provided by DSS aka Brian Hillner. I have spent many hours trying to acheave acceptable results with this method but the outcome is usually, "Yes, it's kind of close but not exactly what I was looking for". One issue I've had with this method is the appearance uses a radial bump map with a fixed size. If you want to put this appearance on a 1" Dia. machined face or a 24" Dia. frying pan you are stuck with the same size Bump Map which usually never looks like a good fit on your part. The radial lines are often too coarse (spacing between the lines) and if you scale the appearance down to bring the lines closer together, then it won't cover the entire face it's been applied to. But, creating your own radial bump map (to add to the appearance) would allow you much more control over the look of the radial lines. But, this is much more work. One big advantage of this method (as with Method#1) the radial look will change realistically with lightning, camera and environment changes. One more downside to this Method is it usually produces Moiré Effects which can be seen as the curved lines in the otherwise radial pattern.
I've attached a couple sample files including my method#2 & method#3 Visualize files, if anyone wants to see specific settings or just play around with them.
Wow Dave, thank you for that extensive response!
Between when I posted and now I had figured out how to use what you define as method 3. It wasn't pretty but it worked. I oriented the camera to have the surface I wanted with the radial look head on. Applied the appearance and all the lines looked concentric to the parts axis as seen below:
I was able to play with the bump strength to make the machine lines look heavier or lighter which was good but you are correct. Manipulating the spacing of lines seemed almost impossible because the moment I changed the tile size, the whole appearance would shift off center. Using "U" and "V" to try to recenter it was annoying and never seemed to look right anyway.
This part, just FYI, is not bigger than an inch and a half.
Also, if you look closely, I did not extract the faces like you mentioned. So if you look in the bore, you can actually see on the bottom and the left "wall" two individual instances of that circle pattern.
The Moire pattern you mentioned is a little annoying as well...
Eh, in any case. This is going to be shrunk down and put into print anyway. No one will likely even see the lines at all at that point haha.
Thanks everyone. I will certainly return to this thread next time I'm doing stuff like this to see if I can achieve better results.